![]() ![]() weave it down to where the dress splits in the back and tighten it up so the threads won’t gape.weave it in a little to make the top of the dress look neat,.What do I mean by a long enough tail? Well, to minimise cutting, I used the tail to Row 76: k8, cast on 8, k15, cast on 8, k7 Row 75: k7, bind off 3, k15, bind off 3, k8 Remember we are still knitting back and forth. You will now be starting the armholes. Row 72-74: knit 3 rows, turning after each one. Stop knitting in the round now and knit flat/back and forth. So you will turn and start knitting in garter stitch. Round 65: decrease to 36 stitches evenly, that is, k8, dec*, k17, dec**, k9 Round 46: decrease to 38 stitches evenly, that is, k9, dec*, k18, dec**, k9 Round 34: decrease to 40 stitches evenly, that is, k9, dec*, k19, dec**, k10 Round 30-33: Switch to 2.25mm needles, knit 4 rows. Round 8-23: Do 4 repeats of the mesh pattern. Actually, I can’t remember if I did 3 repeats or 4 but I know I *wanted* to do 4 so…let’s do 4 □ You will now work 4 repeats of the mesh pattern so 16 rows in total. You will now work some rows of stockinette You will now work a few rows of garter stitch You can make this wider or narrower by casting on any multiple of 3 stitches. Repeat rounds 1-4 as many times as necessary.Ĭast on 42 stitches with 2.75mm needles. Round 3: (yo, k1, k2tog) repeat until end of round.Round 1: (k2tog, yo, k1) repeat until end of round.So if you want to make your dress wider or narrower, just start with any multiple of 3. I used an eyelet lace mesh pattern that required multiples of 3 stitches. But you are free to use whichever decrease you want. This is still a learning exercise for me so later on, when I figure them out and determine if it matters, I may update the stitches. I think you can use any decrease you want because I did my decreases at the sides so I’m not sure if left learning or right learning matters. Gauge: with the smaller needles, in stockinette, 18 stitches by 28 rows correspond to 2in by 2in.įinal measurements: (yikes! forgot to measure this! will have to ask niece.)ĭec* and dec** – I used some decreases for shaping. Materials: stitch marker for beginning of the row (BOR) You can use magic loop and circulars or perhaps work it flat and seam it.Īnd a 2.5mm (or so) crochet hook to pick up dropped stitches and crochet a chain loop! Needles: 2.75mm and 2.25mm double pointed needles. Yarn: fingering, weight and yardage soon (45-50 yards) Here is the link to the ravelry pattern page. I just wet it and stretched it out over a cup. So, it all worked out in the end.Īlso, because of the lace, the dress could benefit from some blocking. Yes, I could have just tightened it up and nobody else would have noticed but I frogged it and started it back with the brilliant idea that I could do the mesh with bigger needles so it would look airier and then switch to my regular size. Well, as with anything lacy, I had happily finished the mesh and then looked back at it and oops I had dropped a stitch. ![]() ![]() I decided that this time I could experiment with lace or eyelets. Later on, I will update this post with a picture of my niece’s doll in the dress □ My niece put on her yoga pants under the dress for the trip to Masjid. Of course, I didn’t make it as long as the pink and blue dresses but oh well. But I didn’t figure that out until later, thus the black dress pattern was top down. Ideally I should have worked this from top down because the garter stitch would have been easier for me to do flat and I would have the natural split in the back for the button and loop. I finally listened to my sister and didn’t make it as tight and also made a closure in the back for ease of dressing. This is the fourth dress of the series, but only the third pattern.
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